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ourpcman

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Everything posted by ourpcman

  1. Most stalks have very simple 2-wire connections and the signals are variable resistances or the like. Does indeed sound like it has failed, or could be a loose contact on the wiring connectors? If it's anything like the Mk1 stalk there's a retaining clip that is hidden. On the Mk1 you can reach it with a screwdriver or similar pushed past the flexible surround "behind" the stalk (back side away from the driver) then presing it forwards to unlatch. This is the back view of a Mk1 stalk. You can probably push something into the relevant hole to unlatch if the Mk2 is similar.
  2. Buy it here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Power-Enhancer-UK? There's different products for petrol & diesel nowadays. :wink:
  3. Extra Load. (as it states in the listing...) Usually for heavier/more powerful vehicles.
  4. Could be your trip computer isn't accurate. The only way to be sure is to brim the tank, do a journey and refill. Then compare the ACTUAL mpg to the computer figure. See this: http://www.robyoung.me.uk/2010/03/ford- ... libration/ (says it's for Mk1.5 though)
  5. Who needs a Finnis code: :wink: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford- ... 0849176475?
  6. Definitely get them to list the £75 of parts before you do anything. :twisted:
  7. If that. Unless, like me, you break the connector on the end of the flexible tube and have to "bodge it" to keep them working, then go and buy some bits on eBay to do it properly... :roll:
  8. Heated or not, same price. :wink: Mine (heated, new fan spray type) were £7.36 delivered, from a Ford dealer.
  9. I'd check what parts he's talking about. If it's the washer jets new ones, with a rubber seal, are less than £3 each and take moments to fit.
  10. I just put a small rectangular bit of adhesive paper label, cut to shape, over the hole and peeled it off afterwards with a sharp knife.
  11. Better to buy these legal ones that are also a lot cooler: H7: http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H7-Rin ... arch=c6910 H1: http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H1-Rin ... arch=c6910 55W * 2.2 = 121W (>100W) :wink:
  12. This eBay listing may give a clue at least to "ball park" pricing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170692669430? Still not sure myself; ideally I'd like both fog and rear mirrored/dualled - can anyone do that legally?
  13. That's essentially the same as the Mk1 - was it in the drivers manual? And what about the immobiliser and starting the car?
  14. Not sure about the Mk2, but the Mk1 you can do part (sometimes all) yourself and SOME of it is in the drivers manual. There are 3 things to get right: 1. The blade - presumably you've had that cut to the correct code already. 2. The immobiliser chip. 3. The remote lock/unlock. The Mk1 describes in the manual how to program the immobiliser yourself if you ALREADY HAVE 2 VALID KEYS. I have read that this function was removed for security reasons in Mk2. If so you need a professional to do it for you, e.g. Ford dealer. Once the immobiliser is programmed and you can unlock the car and start
  15. It was only at most 10% petrol; should be OK. :roll:
  16. Sounds like it's dead. Mine's pretty quick, and you notice the idling revs drop when you turn it on as it sucks up so much current. As it's a very fine mesh and heats evenly it's not as immediately obvious as the rear where the elements get quite warm so you see melted lines very quickly. But it doesn't take long.....
  17. Well, does it still work? If so, it's probably repairable - it's only a sort of glue process. If not you'll need a new one. Happened to me a while back on my Focus and just cost me some sort of minimum charge (£50 maybe?) as it was done via my insurers - no loss of NCD either.
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