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simion_levi

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  1. Yup, trip computer backlight was off at 190mA - not had a chance to run any tests today as I've been replacing my fence, hopefully tomorrow. Darando, I've got a CK3000 so no screen - but it does disconnect as I turn ignition off and lights turn off. Disconnecting the whole wiring harness for radio & BT didn't seem to cause a drop in current draw on my last test so don't think this is the problem. To be honest, I imagine it's been ~190mA since I bought it back in October '07. Gets driven 50-60 miles a day Mon-Fri and longest it has been left standing is for a week. I imagine the glo
  2. Thanks guys - I've got a 56 petrol Zetec with the 6000CD radio, had heard about the Sony issue plus I have a Parrot BT kit installed, so went straight there and pulled all connections for both, but no joy. Fortunately, this did allow me to see the glow from the glovebox light behind the dash. I believe I did get to 20 minutes, but the bonnet was open. I'll have a look later, see if I can weigh down the bonnet pin to fool it and connect up & leave for a while.
  3. Having not driven for a few days, I found that my battery was so flat I couldn't open via central locking. Jumped, tested and battery appears to be fine, but this did prompt me to check current load and I was surprised at a 0.55A drain. Worked out that the glovebox light was not shutting off due to dodgy pin switch, so have now reduced parasitic drain to 0.19A (after EVERYTHING has shutdown, radio & trip computer have timed out). This should certainly relieve my problem a little, but 190mA still sounds very high to me? Should be receiving a clamp meter in the next few days so will run mo
  4. Have you inflated to the correct pressure? Different profiles will need different pressures, you are likely to see fairly large drops in fuel economy etc if your tyres are not inflated correctly.
  5. My Ti-VCT does it too. Fairly sure it is the EGR valve being cycled - you may be aware of the problems with sticky EGR on many vehicles (usually poor idle/stall etc due to carbon buildup), hence in the Focus the engine management cycles the valve a few times on shutdown to try to stop it getting clogged up.
  6. Black IIRC. Both earths are tied together and terminate in the same 'plug'. It's the 'L' shaped one connected to the dome light. (Again IIRC) the 'vertical' part of the L is door switched whilst the horizontal part is the permanant. Take you seconds to check with MM, or you could just put one of the footwell lights across +ve and each earth in turn and observing behaviour whilst doors are opened.
  7. I didn't want to alter any OEM wiring for warranty purposes etc, so I took a permanant live from back of radio harness (have iPod interface and BT carkit, so already have a harness to splice into) and ran a cable up the A pillar to take the switched earth from the dome light. That'll make your footwells fade in and out correctly on opening doors etc. (Again, I've personally got a DIY loom between the Ford loom and my dome/submarine light but if you are happy chopping into the OEM then just check which earth to take from the dome with a multimeter - you'll have two, the door switched one plus
  8. Dealer has diagnosed faulty ABS module so booked in to replace on Thursday. Believes that other problems (engine management light + speedo/odometer dropping to zero) are also related and should be fixed by this. Not convinced yet about the other problems, would love for them to be right though and all be sorted. Big concern is the spate of reports of 02-04 MK1.5 Focus suffering from 'faulty' instrument clusters which actually appear to be dry joints and/or moisture ingress (i.e. http://forum.rac.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1926). Have I got the same thing in a MK2? Of course very glad mine is so
  9. Update; managed to get a 'brake check' out of a Rapid fit Ford dealer this morning - reports as wear/systems all ok, they topped up fluid and the engine management light has now turned off, bizarrely enough! I read my DTC codes too from the TEST dash mode (D900, E197 & E200) which according to some resources shows as 'CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error', 'Invalid Vehicle Speed data' & 'Invalid ODO Count data'. I'd guess at invalid vehicle speed and odometer count being the reason for my speedo/trip computer not functioning properly. Unfortunately this has happened again sinc
  10. '56 Zetec Climate 1.6 Ti-VCT, no mods of interest, mileage ~30K (last serviced on ~25K October '07). Driving this morning and yellow ABS + red handbrake light came on, speedo dropped to zero and main trip computer display read ---------- for each line. Car performance didn't change, was doing 60mph at the time and continued to work after a quick stop and prod around. Solid yellow engine management light joined the other two at this stage - this has stayed on permanantly now. ABS/handbrake light went out after a while, however they do come back on every so often. Speedo woke up again and is
  11. I recall seeing comment about the Sony stereo causing battery drain in the MK2 Focus forum. Not sure if that was the newer Sony HU only though.
  12. I fitted a CK3000evo to my 56 Focus (12/06) last week, the switched live from the quadlock/stereo loom was fine. That's a 6000CD (aux) model, assume the C-Max will be the same. If not, is the power outlet ignition switched? Relatively easy option if so.
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