Jackblack

The 2.0 TDCI engine is also in the volvo S40 2.0D, I wonder if they have the same problems?

No matter.

I had some hesitation around 1700 rpm, however the problem only started when the car went in for a new EGR valve at ford dealer. I have just lived with it for over a year and not let it bother me. Recently I took the air filter out to clean and re oil it, as it is a cotton gauze filter and the filter housing was very loose on the seals around the MAF and the airbox screws were loose. Since cleaning the filter and tightening up all the screws and jubilee clips properly, the problem has gone. May be wise to check if everything is secure and your filter is clean.

Yes but don't just press the menu button, you need to hold it down for a second or so, then the other menu comes up.

No I just looked through the wheel spokes, will check that. Cheers

Ah yes Bob, I found that info on the CD earlier, I think it may wait until after Christmas now as I don't use the car very often, lucky enough to be able to walk to work. Thanks

Yes, thanks for the info, just found my TIS cd and had a look. I need to do the job soonish as only about 4mm left on the pads.

Is this an easy job or are any special tools required?

Try tightening the torx screws under the lid on the dash, you will need to just pull off the plastic cover on top behing the instrument cluster to get to the others. Hey presto, no rattle. You may need to check them every few months or so as they become loose.

You will need to actually remove the headlights from the body, undo the torx screw on the top, then there are 2 plastic retaining clips at the bottom rear of the headlight housing, you need to gently push down on these with a screwdriver then fiddle the housing forward and out from the vehicle body, the covers then can be removed and the lights adjusted. The lever will be clearly visible when the cover is removed, pushing the lever down will bring up a metal cover plate inside the headlamp which flattens off the beam, when you are driving at night you will see that the beam deflection is jus

Try holding the menu button down for a few seconds then scroll down the different settings with the up/down buttons, the clock and date setting should appear.

Hello, not posted for a while as nothing has gone wrong with the car. However the alternator went up the spout and the dealer fitted another under warranty, also had the voltage set point and the rear wiper recall done whilst car was in the garage. Now the car seems to have a double flat spot in 1st gear when accelerating normally. This was not happening before the alternator went, so I was wondering if a pipe or other part had not been fitted back properly after the alternator was replaced?

There is a chain that connects the cams but yes it is rubber timing belt. replace at 150000

If it does run out, you will have to use a vacuum pump to get the fuel back into the fuel rail, ford special tool.

I didn't know they sold this stuff on sky, i got mine from ebay, the point i'm trying to make, is that since i put it in the EGR problem has ceased, it was getting quite annoying before but I don't just have the time to nip to the dealers every 5 minutes the car goes wrong. I must say though looking at some of the posts on here, I seem to have a really good car apart from the EGR issue, which is going to have to be sorted at some point. I'm not really promoting the stuff, i'm mentioning that it has done something that has made the car run better and stopped the EGR from playing up, it may only