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Gandalf

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    beard_of_ineffable_wisdom

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    Firearms criminal and proud of it.
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    BMW 123D SE

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  1. It's not actually that difficult a job to DIY. You basically undo the support bracket for the bearing, take off the lower or upper steerting joint and then pivot the hub outwards, that lets the shaft draw out. The biggest problem as noted will be to stop it leaking again - clean the shaft with 600 grade grit and make sure that the seal goes home fully. If there is a bright ring on the shaft where the old lip has born DONT clean it at all, it'll just be a perished seal.
  2. You may be surprised... I left my fuel cap open on the BMW a few days ago and it made an enourmous noise flapping about in the breeze and on corners, even though the spring was holding it shut against the lock. It's probably worth a go rather than something more expensive with the suspension. The other thing to check is that the spare and associated stuff like that is bouncing about and making a noise as well.
  3. Check the lower bracket where the gearbox is attached to the bulkhead.
  4. All the diesels from the first TDDi have a fairly good immobilisier built in. Alarms were option extras on most of the range for the Mk1 and 1.5
  5. Clutch bearing will be noisy the other way round usually. If the noise goes when then clutch is disengaged then it's gearbox related, usually the input shaft bearing. Have you checked the gerabox has oil in it?
  6. Insulation on the wires will be good to at least 120C so I wouldn't worry. I would take out the alignment motors if fitted though as it will probably upset and displace the gearbox grease
  7. Run a very hot tub of water then in the sink and dip the lamp in it - that may work instead. Otherwise it's find a bigger oven I'm afraid....
  8. Whats wrong with poouring a kettle over them? You can transfer a lot of heat with hot water really fasty and it may well be sufficient. As long as you re sela them it won't matter if some water goes inside either - as long as it's allowed to dry before resealing.
  9. Disks and pads is a myth that the motor industry has perpatuated to sell extras to scared people because it's brakes and you cannot be too careful. Not long back when we had asbestos pads discs would last seemingly forever - at least 100,000 miles, often for the life of the car. Now they may only last for three sets of pads (but the pads last longer so not that bad) but they love to sell them new each time - nice little earner for discs that only cost a few quid to make and sell for five times that. Pads will bed onto discs that are scored without any problems and new discs will always score quickly. If the discs are warped or run out or cracked then yes you will nedd new ones but trust me you know when that happens as it judders like no tomorrow.
  10. It does sound like water is getting in somewhere - check round the lights and the top of the headlining. It could also be a split rear washer hose leaking water as well
  11. But torque is not power - a small engine may well produce less torque but it spins faster than a large engine. A compressor will generally need the same amount of power to do the job and will abstract that much power from the engine regardless of the torque needed so the reduction in mpg will equate to the same power loss - it all depends on what the starting mpg is really.
  12. If the engine can turn over then it's no less likley to fire second time around. Most people seem to expect modern cars to fir striaght away which is an unrealistic expectation - it wasn't that long ago that you would hear a car cranking for a good five or ten seconds before firing. When you first start up a car, it has to build pressure in the fuel rail, measure air temperature, fire the cold start injector if appropriate, disable immobilisers - there is a lot that has to happen. Everyone I've met who said it failed to start is invariably letting go the key too early - not deliberatly but by sheer habit. They expect the car to fire immediately as they do in summer, so hear it crank, let go the key and the engine dies. Come spring, they hold on too long and then say that the starter whines too much...:-) Just let it crank till it fires - if it takes three or four seconds in the cold autumn/winter it's nothing to worry about. You want to try it with a diesel in cold weather.....:-)
  13. It seems to knock at least 4mpg off on most cars. It'll have a bigger effect on smaller engined ones though for certain.
  14. I wouldn't take anything I ever owned to Qwak Fit. A decent garage will charge very little just to swap the oil and will fill it with the right stuff - I wouldn't trust QF to do that at all.
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