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MR535

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  1. it was the fan motor - i have had an air con specailist have a look who quickly discovered the fault. Now trying to source a replacement.
  2. slayingfocus - took it ATS Euromaster. They plugged the high and low pressure system into a computerised stand alone device which i watched as it tested pressures, conducted a vacuum test, confirmed no leaks, and re pressurised and refilled with gas / oil. All from within engine bay (bot high and low pressure valves are on top)
  3. Russ 77 - That's interesting - my system was vacuumed and regassed on an automated machine - found no errors with anything, other than gas levels were low - fully emptied and regassed and it was only after this (with the system capable of functioning) that they symptoms emerged. Would be very interested in learning of any outcome you get. Mick
  4. Hopefully somebody may know the answer.... Bought the car (2.0 Mk2.5 on an 05 plate - Ghia, 97000 miles) in December - went to use aircon in recent warm weather - nothing happening. Light on, but no cold air. Aircon system not cycling. Revs are constant. Took it (today) to have system checked and gassed - check reveals no leaks, but very low on gas - all gassed / oiled up etc. Now, aircon system cycles in precise timings - compressor energises for exactly 7 seconds and then cuts out for exactly 20 seconds, and this then repeats adinfinitum. Still, no cold air coming into the vehicle. A
  5. update for anybody who's interested. turned out to be a loose connection in the 'spiders nest' of wires around the battery box. all working nicely again now.
  6. possible resolution? Took thge vehilce back to the garage (from where it was bought) and described the symptoms (again) together with the additional info re crusie control and there was an 'Ah!' moment. It seems they had very similar symptoms on another 2005 Tdci diesel Focus and discovered quite by accident after a conversation with an auto electricain that there is a small electrical component soldered to the rear of the dash that suffers from dry joints. On the 'other' vehicle, they replaced it (£100) and cured the problem - the dry joint(s) appear to interrupt the electrical signal
  7. I spoke too soon! After a few weeks of flawless driving including a 1000 mile round trip to not very sunny Cornwall last week, the dreaded symptoms have returned! Initially without the engine management light, but now with the glowing reminder. Precisely the same scenario as before with the exception that refuses to rev over 2750 (as opposed to 2000). Interestingly, i've discovered that when these symptoms occur, the cruise control refuses to engage - a clue? If this can't be properly diagnosed and fixed, i'm going to have to trade the car in as i cannot have unreliable transport ....
  8. Ive had my 05 plate 2.0 diesel ghia Focus since last December. Around Jan this year, for no apparent reason, on totally random occassions upon starting, it would refuse point blank to rev over 2000 rpm. It would be fine for days on end and then suddenly refuse - sometimes it would decide to work fine if I turned the engine off and then on again, and other times it continued to refuse to rev. I took it back to the garage several times, but on each occassion there were no fault codes to indicate what it may be - they cleared the codes that were there and it worked fine again until next tim
  9. Mine go out instantly - but only if I double lock the doors - double click the 'lock' on the remote.
  10. If only it were that simple! Ok - here's what I had to do to fit a DAB Island Series unit plus leads / aerial etc in exchange for a standard Island Series HU .. First - the bits Dab roof mount plus antenna, Dab aerial cable and extension. Second - removal of existing HU Third - undo and remove original FM aerial - you need to remove (don't really have to but it makes life easier) the front interior light and surround. Once the light has been prised out, two screws to remove to drop the surround from the roof lining. Then, using a Torx driver, undo the original aerial connection.... be care
  11. Will do. Fitting e radio will be easy - straight swap. It's the fitting and routing the cables to the roof that'll be interesting - ill photograph as I go and post the results as I did before. Sadly, the topic header 'round peg, square hole' doesn't give a clue as to the topic, so others wanting to know how it's done may not find the info - any moderator care to stick this topic in one of the 'how to' areas under ICE perhaps?
  12. Thanks Artillwrayman. I've now bought a DAB unit to replace the one in situ and have to trot off to Ford to get the relevant bits to make it all work. I'll give them the part number you provided and see what it looks like. Many thanks.
  13. Thankfully DAB in quite good in my part of the world - and as I travel a bit, I'll have an option on whaich signal I use. The original radio is on eBay and being 'watched' by over a dozen people - the radio I swapped yours out for sold almost straight away on eBay. I also have the Mocca wood facia for sale on eBay (in case anybody is interested - search Focus facia), so by the time I have finished, I should just about have broken even - just a case then of costing the parts for the DAB aerial etc and then the cost of (yet another) repalcement HU - the DAB one. I was watching one on eBay that
  14. I certainly am! Now considering the DAB option........ And I'd love to find the faux wood facia to replace the plastic silver one...
  15. As requested - how to convert the radio appature from retangular to round edged etc to fit the newer style radio that 'screws' into the dash Starting point - the embedded radio that requires the 4 keys to remove it... The bits you'll need .. Ford part number 1547964 x 2 for the brackets and 1539347 for the new facia Total cost £32 First - remove the old radio using the 4 keys - ensure that the straight edge of each key is facing out - it's the 'serated' edge that activates the unlocking mechanism .. Using a blunt instrument of some kind (trim removal tool or old butter knife
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