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MR535

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  1. it was the fan motor - i have had an air con specailist have a look who quickly discovered the fault. Now trying to source a replacement.
  2. slayingfocus - took it ATS Euromaster. They plugged the high and low pressure system into a computerised stand alone device which i watched as it tested pressures, conducted a vacuum test, confirmed no leaks, and re pressurised and refilled with gas / oil. All from within engine bay (bot high and low pressure valves are on top)
  3. Russ 77 - That's interesting - my system was vacuumed and regassed on an automated machine - found no errors with anything, other than gas levels were low - fully emptied and regassed and it was only after this (with the system capable of functioning) that they symptoms emerged. Would be very interested in learning of any outcome you get. Mick
  4. Hopefully somebody may know the answer.... Bought the car (2.0 Mk2.5 on an 05 plate - Ghia, 97000 miles) in December - went to use aircon in recent warm weather - nothing happening. Light on, but no cold air. Aircon system not cycling. Revs are constant. Took it (today) to have system checked and gassed - check reveals no leaks, but very low on gas - all gassed / oiled up etc. Now, aircon system cycles in precise timings - compressor energises for exactly 7 seconds and then cuts out for exactly 20 seconds, and this then repeats adinfinitum. Still, no cold air coming into the vehicle. Air con people think it's probably an electrical issue as the aircon system itself checks out just fine on all their equipment save for failing to deliver cold air. They did mention that the radiator fan should be on at all times the aircon is working, but it doesn't kick in at all - personally, i'm not sure if that's really the case (never had a Ford before with aircon) - the car cycles up to normal engine temp and sits happily at that temp without the fan cutting in regardless of how long i let it idle on the driveway. Any knowledge from the collective that may lead me to a functioning aircon?? Fingers crossed!
  5. update for anybody who's interested. turned out to be a loose connection in the 'spiders nest' of wires around the battery box. all working nicely again now.
  6. possible resolution? Took thge vehilce back to the garage (from where it was bought) and described the symptoms (again) together with the additional info re crusie control and there was an 'Ah!' moment. It seems they had very similar symptoms on another 2005 Tdci diesel Focus and discovered quite by accident after a conversation with an auto electricain that there is a small electrical component soldered to the rear of the dash that suffers from dry joints. On the 'other' vehicle, they replaced it (£100) and cured the problem - the dry joint(s) appear to interrupt the electrical signals from the ECU to - wherever they go - producing the fault as described and with no error codes indicating what it could be. We'll see if this is the issue with mine and if the fault is cured when I get the car back.
  7. I spoke too soon! After a few weeks of flawless driving including a 1000 mile round trip to not very sunny Cornwall last week, the dreaded symptoms have returned! Initially without the engine management light, but now with the glowing reminder. Precisely the same scenario as before with the exception that refuses to rev over 2750 (as opposed to 2000). Interestingly, i've discovered that when these symptoms occur, the cruise control refuses to engage - a clue? If this can't be properly diagnosed and fixed, i'm going to have to trade the car in as i cannot have unreliable transport .... :( any more isead anyone?
  8. Ive had my 05 plate 2.0 diesel ghia Focus since last December. Around Jan this year, for no apparent reason, on totally random occassions upon starting, it would refuse point blank to rev over 2000 rpm. It would be fine for days on end and then suddenly refuse - sometimes it would decide to work fine if I turned the engine off and then on again, and other times it continued to refuse to rev. I took it back to the garage several times, but on each occassion there were no fault codes to indicate what it may be - they cleared the codes that were there and it worked fine again until next time. Typically, it never misbehaved for the garage. Once or twice, the engine management light came on - and on one occassion the dashboard was lit like a christmas tree. The last time it occurred (some weeks ago now) the engine management light came on and it refused to rev over 2k as per ususal. Having had enough of this, I tried something different ....... knowing that 2k was good enough for 80mph in 6th gear, i took it out onto a local fast road and coaxed it through the gears to 6th and sat at the rev limit of 2000 for several miles - about 20 all told. If you decide to try the same, bear in mind that the roads need to be 'quiet' as it's a slow process getting to that speed with limited revs! Anyway, the upshot is that this seems to have cured the matter - it's almost as if the 'fault' has been blown through the systems somehow and the car fires up and drives perfectly as if nothing had ever happened. The engine management light stayed on for 48 hours and then self extinguished and hasn't been seen since. Mick
  9. Mine go out instantly - but only if I double lock the doors - double click the 'lock' on the remote.
  10. If only it were that simple! Ok - here's what I had to do to fit a DAB Island Series unit plus leads / aerial etc in exchange for a standard Island Series HU .. First - the bits Dab roof mount plus antenna, Dab aerial cable and extension. Second - removal of existing HU Third - undo and remove original FM aerial - you need to remove (don't really have to but it makes life easier) the front interior light and surround. Once the light has been prised out, two screws to remove to drop the surround from the roof lining. Then, using a Torx driver, undo the original aerial connection.... be careful not to lose the screw, domed washer and little black plastic collar that will fall away if you are not prepared for it.. From outside, remove the aerial base. I snipped off the original aerial cable connection at this point as it was going to prove nigh on impossible to remove it as it will be clipped in at various points, and the loose connector was going to be the source of a ratle at some stage. Next, the new Dab aerial base needs fitting to the car from the outside. It has an integral collar the lightly clicks into place when you push it into the hole in the roof meaning this becomes a one person operation. From inside, connect the new Dab cable - this time you'll need an 8mm driver to secure it as it's held in place with a captive nut. Now to route the new aerial cable. I chose to go from centre to left - that is to say, across the car on the left - simply because it was going to be easier to find the space to run the cable (the original aerial is run the opposite way. With the interior light fitting and surround removed, it's easy to gently ease down the leading edge of the roof lining and feed the cable within the gap. I decided to remove the sun visor and its seat to aid the process (3 screws in total). Now remove the A pillar trim. Daunting, but if you start with a finger under the edge at the very top, nearest the door openeing (once you have eased the rubber trim far enough away) and add another finger, then another, you can start to gently tug the pillar trim away from the pillar. It's held in place by 3 or 4 retangular clips that (in my case) stayed firmly rooted in their sockets whislt the trim was pulled off the head of the clips. You will now have revealed the bare naked pillar plus a loom or two and some handy cable run clips already in situ. With the aerial cable now exiting from the headlining, utilise the exposed spare cable run clips and .....clip the new cable in palce. With a pair of pliers, gently extract the pillar trim clips that popped off the back of the pillar trim and place them back into the pillar trim to ease putting it all back again. Now, from the passagner side, drop the fuse box and remove the glovebox (to ease the cable route). The aerial extension and the aerial that you have just routed down the A pillar connect together with a male/female socket. Feed the clip end of the extension cable up through the gap that you'll be able to see at the base of the A pillar. Make the connection and then route the rest of the cable into the back of the where the radio sits. When running the route, allow for the glove box to go back - there's more than enough cable, so you can be inventive with the route you take. BEFORE you put everything back together, 'loose' fit the new radio and make sure it works on DAB and FM. If you are happy that it does, refit the A pillar trim - you have of course reomved the clips from the car body on the A pillar and reseated them in the trim ... so it's just a case of getting them back in the right hole and then with a hefty thump, making them 'go home'. Put the glove box back etc, feed the mass of cables and wires etc into the hole that the radio is supposed to go into and then spend the next 30 minutes trying to push the radio home endlessly trying to find space for all the conectors etc so that the radio eventually goes back where it is supposed to be. Secure radio and refit facia! Put back everything else that laying about that you took off previously - interior lights and so on, contents of glove box, and anything else..... and that's it. I have all the above as pics, but for some odd reason, cannot for the life of me load them up the www ... if I work out how, i'll add them to the narrative.
  11. Will do. Fitting e radio will be easy - straight swap. It's the fitting and routing the cables to the roof that'll be interesting - ill photograph as I go and post the results as I did before. Sadly, the topic header 'round peg, square hole' doesn't give a clue as to the topic, so others wanting to know how it's done may not find the info - any moderator care to stick this topic in one of the 'how to' areas under ICE perhaps?
  12. Thanks Artillwrayman. I've now bought a DAB unit to replace the one in situ and have to trot off to Ford to get the relevant bits to make it all work. I'll give them the part number you provided and see what it looks like. Many thanks.
  13. Thankfully DAB in quite good in my part of the world - and as I travel a bit, I'll have an option on whaich signal I use. The original radio is on eBay and being 'watched' by over a dozen people - the radio I swapped yours out for sold almost straight away on eBay. I also have the Mocca wood facia for sale on eBay (in case anybody is interested - search Focus facia), so by the time I have finished, I should just about have broken even - just a case then of costing the parts for the DAB aerial etc and then the cost of (yet another) repalcement HU - the DAB one. I was watching one on eBay that sold yetserday - went for £180 - not quite rerady to spalsh out just yet, but keeping an eye on what they go for.
  14. I certainly am! Now considering the DAB option........ And I'd love to find the faux wood facia to replace the plastic silver one...
  15. As requested - how to convert the radio appature from retangular to round edged etc to fit the newer style radio that 'screws' into the dash Starting point - the embedded radio that requires the 4 keys to remove it... The bits you'll need .. Ford part number 1547964 x 2 for the brackets and 1539347 for the new facia Total cost £32 First - remove the old radio using the 4 keys - ensure that the straight edge of each key is facing out - it's the 'serated' edge that activates the unlocking mechanism .. Using a blunt instrument of some kind (trim removal tool or old butter knife for example), prise off the existing trim. Start from the bottom - it's all clipped in - but don't forget to undo the two Torx 20 screws in the centre of the recess.. This is what you'll end up with ... The two brackets you bought are designed to sit along the left and right edges of the apperture to pack out the radio so that it will sit flush with the facia. There are two protrusions on the back of each piece that will need to push into holes you'll have to drill. This is a side on view of one of the bits .. Bear in mind that whist each item is identical, you will need to turn one 'the other way up', so the holes you will need to drill will not be symetrical in each side of the recess. I used a dab of paint on the two protrusions and then pressed the offending item into place, leaving a small paint mark to show me where to drill. Use a 6mm bit. I've circled the paint marks so you can see what i'm talking about. If youre going to do any additional wiring, say to fit an aux cable and socket, now's the time to do it all. I decided to fit my aux outles in one of the sapre switch covers and also added an additional aux power outlet into the dash cubby hole. Having drilled the holes, push the bracket into place - it will sit flat in the recess .. With both brackets fitted - you end up with this ... Now offer up the new radio - make the connections and make sure it's working. Use 4 x pointy self tapping screws and with the radio now in the hole, line the 4 holes on the frame of the radio with the 4 holes in the brackets you have just secured into the recess. Drive the screws in to secure the whole lot. Bear in mind that you are srewing into plastic and trying to tighten too much will weaken the fixing as the plastic will lose the ability to hold the screws. Finally, push fit the replacement facia and the job is done. Ford tell me that the only facia available is the silver one (as seen) though I find that hard to believe. I'd much prefer to replace the facia with the same style as the old one that I took out (faux wood veneer) ... so if anybody has one to fit around an isalnd series radio ..... That's it - job done. It took me about an hour, but I was pfaffing about taking pictures which probably doubled the required time.
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