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Teribus last won the day on February 12 2014

Teribus had the most liked content!

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    Selkirk, Scottish Borders
  1. For £13.00 you could've fitted an LED bulb, a 360 degree one at that! And it'd last longer. -T
  2. Just thought I'd come back and say well done to everyone who replied. The alternator was the component at fault. The garage fitted a new alternator and a new battery (since it had the wrong type of battery fitted!) and the car's working like a gem now. -T
  3. Yeah, had both the battery warning light and the engine management light (which i presume would've come on because of the drop in voltage, I've read elsewhere on the CMax forum that there's a code for voltage drop?) I'd have thought the charging system would've kicked in when the booster battery was hitched up, but it didn't. Also I think it's the wrong type of battery fitted. The guy bought it from a SEAT dealership 18 months ago, and it broke down a few days after they got it so the SEAT dealership fitted a "new" battery. I say "new" as it was stamped with 2004 :roll: I'm pretty conf
  4. It's off to a local garage actually, another mate of my dad's. Though I did suggest to the chap who owns it that he may want to get the software on the ECU checked out to see if it needs updated. Was comical though, I had to drive it down to the garage with the backup battery in the passenger footwell and jumper cables passed out the passenger window and into the bonnet! And it cut out on me on the busiest roundabout in the town! Got to say, I was shocked at the driving of the CMax: it's all dashboard! It feels like you've got more car in front of you than behind you, it's really weird
  5. Not at all mate, just wanted to check that was all! I take it the silver/calcium battery is slightly stronger than the normal lead-acid battery? i.e. it can stand higher current drains etc.? From what I'm reading, the CMax seems to have a high set of current drains based on stuff like dodgy headunits, and the dash and radio illumination staying on for some time after the car has been locked! -T
  6. peejay1977, Had you tried using some releasing oil on your old switch? That might free it away and you can keep hold of it as a spare. We use micro switches a lot at work on the buses and they're prone to sticking, a regular dose of WD-40 keeps them good though :) -T
  7. Well, my dad's decided to hand the job over to a garage, but like you say I'd expect they'll change the battery and alternator together. As a matter of fact, I'll suggest it anyway. Is it a silver-lead battery that the CMax requires. I'd read silver/calcium elsewhere on the forum...??? I'm away to print off the various threads I found that sound similar to the problem. -T
  8. To be honest, I put the EPB problem down to low voltage as well. I reckon a new battery might be required as well anyway, with this one being as discharged as it is, it'll never be the same again. Looks like a nice Christmas bill for someone then! :( -T
  9. OK, I've just been down at the stricken CMax. First thing I checked was battery voltage, and sure enough the battery's drained. It's showing only 9.3 volts. However, with the jump battery connected up it's a good 12.2 volts. The engine starts and runs fine with the jump battery connected, but the charge light doesn't go out and it's still showing 12.2 volts. Another thing coming up is a "limited EPB function" fault, though I put that down to the low voltage in the battery? Would I be right in assuming that this 28,000-mile motor's looking at needing a new alternator then? -T
  10. Thanks for these suggestions, will give them all a shot today. Jonesy, Yeah, I probably could leave the backup battery connected through the cigarette lighter while I recharge the original battery, that would work I suppose. The original battery will have to be removed from the car for charging though as the car's quite a distance away from the house :( I'll try leaving it running for a while anyway, and see what happens. I'll report back with any findings, though after speaking to my dad about what he's done to it so far, it'd appear the alternator may well be shot, as well as the battery
  11. Well, the keys the guy has supplied only has the standard Ford flip/remote key, and his house and work keys! So if that is the case, then we don't appear to have a key for it. Is it not possible that it's a standard fit alarm system? We think we may be able to overcome that by one of those clever devices that plugs into your cigarette lighter and is designed to keep power going to the radio so you don't lose the code. That may then make the alarm think the battery is still fitted while we change it over, but obviously neither of us is sure whether even that will work or not! I've been re
  12. Hey all. My dad's appeared with an '04 plate Focus C-max Ghia that belongs to his workmate. The car is a 1.8 petrol. From what I'm told, the car was driving fine, then several warning lights came on and the car cut out. It now will not run under it's own steam. However, if the car is started with the help of a set of booster cables and another battery, it will start no problem at all. However, if the backup battery is disconnected, the car cuts out again. Obviously we assume this to be a fault with the car's current battery and we'd like to get it off to give it a good, slow overnight
  13. Question for those with the 1.6TDCi Cmax. What kind of MPG do you get with them on average? -T
  14. haha, wouldn't surprise me if it did! No, I don't particularly want it. I'd never buy a car from Thornwood VW as they are so overpriced. Just surprised they have one so relatively cheap on their forecourt! But, no. I can't afford it even if I would buy a car from them :lol: -T
  15. Newer, with less miles, and 400 less cc and less mpg. I know where I'd rather put my money, but then I do prefer a diesel So, basically, Thornwood VW have actually got a car on their forecourts that's actually cheap for what it is?! This must be a first... -T
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