Robertminchin

It takes all sorts to make a Forum Monkeeboy !! :D Bob

Take it to a reputable non ford franchised garage. If they find the problem is a warranty issue they can get authorisation from the local Ford garage to sort out the problem. If it turns out to be wear & tear it can be fixed at lower labour rates. Bob

Try here http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=7027374 Bob

Thanks for correcting me Joff. I did not know that Edge should not be used. Sorry to mislead anyone Bob :oops:

Castrol Magnatec and Castrol Edge both made in 5w-30 Any oil meeting or exceeding the Ford spec will be fine. I use http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Car,+Leisure ... ku=CP03784 £16.17 for 5litres in UK Bob

No worries RTV :D Bob

I thought I had explained. I did not have my service book to hand but the quoted intervals sounded familiar hence why I wrote what I did. Suppose I had stated it more firmly but been wrong? Then you might have justifiably said I was misleading. What I stated was that the answer was in the service book and so the OP could have looked there to confirm. So trying to help - yes; Misleading - No Bob

The Cmax tdci engines have both a cam chain connecting the two cam shafts and a toothed belt driving one camshaft from the crankshaft. I have not got the information to hand but it is in the owners service guide and agree with Andy that the belt interval change of 150000km/100000miles or 10 years sounds about right. Bob

If your car is still under warranty I would make sure you forget to mention this to the dealer. Bob :wink:

1.5 is the accepted minimum so not that urgent to change them yet Bob

According to the Ford instruction CD, it is not necessary to rotate the piston when pushing it back into the caliper. So nothing special as far as I can see. Should be easy HTH Bob

That is good news then :) Only short lived good news due to the increase in emissions because I assume that will make it an MOT failure with a blanked off EGR?? Bob

Andy, I expect you will find it is electrically operated. I only suggest this as one of the aledged software fixes for the EGR problem was to excercise the valve a few times when the engine was switched off. Under these conditions I would not have thought that there would have been enought vacuum power left when the engine was not running. I could be wrong though so I'd welcome your findings Bob

I thought the engine type could be found by decoding the VIN number but a further search shows that this is only the case for Ford USA and not Ford Europe which seems a bit daft. If you are concerned that they might not have given you the right engine then ask them to prove to you which it is! It should come with a sheet specifying the CO2 anyway - separate from the V5. Bob

According to the Ford TIS CD "The accessory drive belts are elastic multi-groove belts which must not be re-used. No tensioner pulleys are used. Service replacement parts are delivered in a service kit which includes the special tools required for installation. The crankshaft belt pulley has two running surfaces for the elastic multi-groove belts. The longer drive belt drives the power steering pump, the alternator and the coolant pump. The shorter drive belt drives the A/C compressor." Maybe if you order the service kit you will get the tools included? My CD does not show any pict

Hi Colin, My view of the Mintex site only allows brake pad search by vehicle details so i can view the revised pads you mention. http://mintexcat.mintex.co.uk/mintexcat/selection.php I presume the ones I have will still fit??? regards Bob

Hi CFC, In what way were the Mintex ones differnet? I've bought ABtex pads and note that the box says they fit Nissan Primera, Opel /whizzpopper Signum, Renault and Saab But don't mention Ford. However they do look exactly like the diagram on the Mintex site including all the fancy springs on the back which is reassuring. Bob

I've started a discussion on an engineering forum and this is a response posted by 'Moray' quote As others have said, it's due to the square seals deforming, and then pulling the piston back in, once hydraulic pressure is released. As for the wear issue, it's due to how modern braking systems are set-up. Very few modern vehicles have load compensating valves, so instead, the rear brakes always see full hydraulic pressure, and rely on EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) to prevent the rear wheels from locking when the vehicles unladen. EBD is essentially just a marketing term for

CFC, The drag to which I refer is only felt with the wheel jacked up off the ground. The front wheels are completely free but the rears pads can be heard to rub on the discs. Glad to hear the pad change went well, I'm going to have to do mine soon as I'm down the the minimum 1.5mm on the back. I've been digging around a bit as to how disc pads are meant to give a working clearance. Apparently the hydraulic rubber seal (not the dust seal) is designed to withdraw the piston ever so slightly when the hydraulic pressure is released. I can see how this might work for a double piston caliper

A lateral thought certainly Pete. On our Max, there is a slight drag on the wheel when the EPB is off and I think this is why it wears more. But this leads me to wonder how ANY disc brake avoids this drag as there is nothing to retract the pad when the hydraulic pressure is removed. Can it be that some degree of disc runout is needed to push the pad away from the rest of the disc. As for hill starts, the EPB is the invention of the devil. I was recently in a queue of a mile or so uphill moving at about half a cars length in between stops. I was longing for a real handbrake after about 10 min

Contributors to this forum have noted that Maxs fitted with EPB get through pads much faster than those without EPB. My max has EPB and after about 28k miles needs new rear pads whereas the front pads anr about half worn -6mm ish left. I had always assumed that the EPB wear was caused by the handbrake unit not releasing fully but I note with interest that the cables are completely free with end float when the brake is released and therefore the wear must be caused by the caliper not releasing fully. I can't see why this should beas the caliper looks no different to me from other cars that

I've just bought new pads ready for when they are needed Rear pads have 10.5mm friction material - type ABP 3846 Front Pads have 12mm friction material - type ABP1145 I post this as I'm sure in a prior thread on the subject it was suggested that new pads typically had 10mm of friction material. Bob

I tend to agree with Andy's assessment. My seat stopped working both up and down and the warrenty covered the replacement of the whole seat base so I conclude that motors alone are not a service part. Bob

Thanks Booth- just what I needed Bob

Just measured my brake discs today. Both front and back have a distinct lip of rust but I'm not sure what the minimum thicknesses are. I've read of discs needing change at second service. My max has 28k on the clock and is just 3 years old Front Disc are 24.25mm and the back ones are 10.16mm. Rear pads are nearly shot - 1.5mm left but the front ones have about 7mm. I bought the car at 10.5k miles and before any services were done so I assume the pads/discs are original. Anyone know the minumum thickness permitted? TIA Bob