Jackblack

The 2.0 TDCI engine is also in the volvo S40 2.0D, I wonder if they have the same problems?

No matter.

I had some hesitation around 1700 rpm, however the problem only started when the car went in for a new EGR valve at ford dealer. I have just lived with it for over a year and not let it bother me. Recently I took the air filter out to clean and re oil it, as it is a cotton gauze filter and the filter housing was very loose on the seals around the MAF and the airbox screws were loose. Since cleaning the filter and tightening up all the screws and jubilee clips properly, the problem has gone. May be wise to check if everything is secure and your filter is clean.

Yes but don't just press the menu button, you need to hold it down for a second or so, then the other menu comes up.

No I just looked through the wheel spokes, will check that. Cheers

Ah yes Bob, I found that info on the CD earlier, I think it may wait until after Christmas now as I don't use the car very often, lucky enough to be able to walk to work. Thanks

Yes, thanks for the info, just found my TIS cd and had a look. I need to do the job soonish as only about 4mm left on the pads.

Is this an easy job or are any special tools required?

Try tightening the torx screws under the lid on the dash, you will need to just pull off the plastic cover on top behing the instrument cluster to get to the others. Hey presto, no rattle. You may need to check them every few months or so as they become loose.

You will need to actually remove the headlights from the body, undo the torx screw on the top, then there are 2 plastic retaining clips at the bottom rear of the headlight housing, you need to gently push down on these with a screwdriver then fiddle the housing forward and out from the vehicle body, the covers then can be removed and the lights adjusted. The lever will be clearly visible when the cover is removed, pushing the lever down will bring up a metal cover plate inside the headlamp which flattens off the beam, when you are driving at night you will see that the beam deflection is jus

Try holding the menu button down for a few seconds then scroll down the different settings with the up/down buttons, the clock and date setting should appear.

Hello, not posted for a while as nothing has gone wrong with the car. However the alternator went up the spout and the dealer fitted another under warranty, also had the voltage set point and the rear wiper recall done whilst car was in the garage. Now the car seems to have a double flat spot in 1st gear when accelerating normally. This was not happening before the alternator went, so I was wondering if a pipe or other part had not been fitted back properly after the alternator was replaced?

There is a chain that connects the cams but yes it is rubber timing belt. replace at 150000

If it does run out, you will have to use a vacuum pump to get the fuel back into the fuel rail, ford special tool.

I didn't know they sold this stuff on sky, i got mine from ebay, the point i'm trying to make, is that since i put it in the EGR problem has ceased, it was getting quite annoying before but I don't just have the time to nip to the dealers every 5 minutes the car goes wrong. I must say though looking at some of the posts on here, I seem to have a really good car apart from the EGR issue, which is going to have to be sorted at some point. I'm not really promoting the stuff, i'm mentioning that it has done something that has made the car run better and stopped the EGR from playing up, it may only

I'm interested to know how this could cause a problem with warranty, how on earth are ford going to know that I put this is my car? Its a clear liquid that you just pop in the fuel tank, there is no difference in colour in the see through fuel tube, I would say that unless they decide to take a fuel sample and do extensive tests on it to see if there any any additves in there, the invalidating warranty talk is over cautious nonsense. Like i say, it has done something and i dont have any cause to lie. I will be buying another bottle in 3 months and putting it in as it has not faultered on

got hold of a bottle of this stuff and it has worked some wonders, fuel economy has shot up, got well over 500 on a tank before the fuel warning came on at 50 miles left also EGR has stopped giving me trouble too, pickup has improved even though it is quite new. It has been £12 well spent.

Anyone used this stuff and had reasonable results? I was just thinking that if it works as it says it may clean up the EGR valve and stop it sticking. :?:

The C-Max 2.0 TDCI is also in the new volvo S40, I wonder if any volvo owners with this engine are having the same trouble? I have only had this EGR problem recently, starting at around 16000 miles, then it did it again at around 18500. When it did stick and there was no power, I got it going again then ragged the S**T out of it for a couple of miles, not changing gear until the red arrow lit up. Seems to be ok at the moment. Touch lots of wood!!

Whats the screwdriver trick, is it just tapping on the EGR valve to make it unstick?

What would happen if the electrical connection was disconnected from the EGR Valve, would the engine still run? I haven't tried it, but you can see the connector there on top of the valve at the back of the engine. if its not open surely it couldn't get stuck open but i imagine fault codes will be registered. Has anybody tried this?

Yep going to the dealer on Wednesday to see if it is the EGR, they seem to think it is, so a replacement is on the cards hopefully. I've got a Jamex panel air filter in there, would it be a wise thing to do to put the standard one back in until the EGR is fixed?

if the EGR froze, why would disconnecting the battery sort it? Is it like some kind of computer crash, cutting the power resets it? Total loss of confidence in the car now, i need to keep a 10mm spanner in there now to do the battery if it happens again. :roll:

Started the car last week, only to find that there was no revs or power when the accelerator pedal was pressed. I turned the engine off and restarted it at least 5 times, if you tried to move off the thing just stalled. The only way i got it back to normal was to disconnect the battery, then reconnect it. with all the recalls and TSB's has anybody any idea why it did what it did? Thanks

Hello not been on for a while, I have had this problem but i couldn't be bothered to go to the dealer. I took off the hatch trim panel then took off the boot handle, where the number plate lights are and the boot release switch. I took the switch mechanism out of the boot handle, there is a small microswitch in there which is sealed by rubber on the side where the wires connect, i got rid of all the rubber to find that water ingress has caused some corrosion with the switch connections so i resoldered them and put the switch back into its holder and replaced the rubber sealing bung with ho