iansnewfocus

afaik no. why bother trying to fit seats from a different mk of car when mk 2 st recaro's are cheap as on ebay

The noise you could also be hearing is the abs system setting itself up too.

has anyone on here ever changed them? need to know what tools, how hard and how long it take's as im getting some pumaspeed ones and fitting them myself.

well even though the pumaspeed website says they do cams for my engine they actually dont. the web site is very very badly laid out. with fiesta parts etc showing up in the focus area and there mk2 focus page is not engine related either. utter crap!

1.8 petrol looking at cams next or poss supercharger kit down the line.

Pipercross panel filter. I don't want a pod filter if it's enclosed or not as I don't like the look of them and you still get heat soak when stationary.

So after getting a custom Blueflame exhaust, panel filter and remap the car only just made the bhp figures ford state my model comes with (125ish bhp). The remap does work as I have before and after printouts. My question is are there any other simple mods I can do eg diff snorkel? I'm not fitting a pod filter as in traffic they are utter crap with heat soak. If I can't do anything thats cheap and looks stock then next port of call is pumaspeed cams.

well every focus i looked at did this. i think its very poor from ford to make a car with such a poor reading temp gauge. i now resort to putting the dash into test mode every time i do a long journey

look on ebay. mine were already painted and local. came with tyres that are ok for a few track days. you can selll your old wheels then and its cost you nothing

no i got some st ones in panther black fitted to my car so have my others spare now

why not just get the zetec s rear bumper

sport aint a pain when parking. its only a little bit more stiffer than normal. driving a car with no power steering that has a 2.5litre straight 6 is a pain1

if you have the cable and the software you can perm set it to sport or what ever one you want

well it got replaced but two hours after turning the engine off it still shows that the engine is fully warm. im now thinking that the actual gauge on the car is faulty if its showing correct at the ecu end.

its only a tenner for the sender ( roughly i think ) from ford.

most senders have two outputs. one for the dash and one for the ecu ( sometimes one output does both ). if its got two outputs then when they scan the ecu it shows its working ok as all the scanner looks for is signal. sometime you need to measure resistance at certain temps on the dash to see what it should be for the given temp.

yes originally the car would have a very irratic idle. when it said it was warm after half a mile it would drop revs to below 500 then up to over 1500 and so on when in neutral until the engine was actually warm. it went to ford for a ecu/pcm reflash. this sure the idle. but it didnt cure the temp gauge which would after two hours still show the engine was fully warm which there is no hope in hell of it being still at 90deg. also the movement of it going to 90deg was not smooth at all. there is no way an engine can get to 90deg in half a mile. i showed them the pics of both the dash and the s

they just called to say that the temp sender is broken and a new one will be there on tuesday.

yes. just because the engine is off does not make any difference to how it should display temp. the ford guys agree with me as it was sat outside ford for two hours and still showed 90 deg on the dash.

is your temp gauge also not smooth at all in operation? i have taken pics for them to look at one the software showing one temp and the gauge another also pics of the gauge hours apart.

yes. there is no way the engine can still be that temp two hours after. also the face it showed 60 before and ten metres later it was on 90. the eml cable and software showed 41deg temp when the engine went to 90 too. this is after less than half a mile of driving.

yes i did but like i said there is already a thread for the mk2/2.5 already. yes its not for zetec-s on there own but no need to duplicate threads

mine is the same from the top of the tyre to the arch so no need to lower mine anymore :) unless i can get some coilovers from my mate. same ones as run on numeroius time attack and drift cars.

mine is still under warranty plus i paid for an extra three years on top of that. im not accepting it back again after just an ecu flash as that sorted the cold running issue but the temp gauge issue has come back.

i have a 1.8 mk2.5 zetec s and the temp gauge shows fully warm after the car sitting there with no engine running for two hours. does anyone else's car do this too or just mine?