DougS

Bob It is indeed useful and further, how is the Fuel filter changed? On the TIS it implies a special tool (like the bulb that they USED to fit in line with the fuel pipe) to, I think draw fuel through right into the main pump is needed? I did see one for, I think £70 (a bit steep, so dismissed it) but I think maybe a pipette filler with a piece of pipe the correct size would do it? There's a bleed point on the filter housing but how do you ensure the main pump is primed? I would be very concerned to avoid any chance of damage to the very high pressure pump (due to potential outrageous

Bob (or others) I would like to know the details of oil change on 2.0 TDCi including size of (BIG) nut and all the little wrinkles that come from experience. I believe you simply unscrew the top of the filter, the oil drains back, change filter cartridge (not can) and screw top back. What about sump plug (have had corroded in ones on Mondeo which turn a 10 min job into a disaster of epic proportions) There's no substitute for having done it? Have had it serviced by Ford but now that the guarantee is up...

The central pin needs a good pull to remove and the tool (Machine Mart do one but it's a bit feeble) looks like a plate with a slot in it which you slide between the central pin (about 3mm) and then gently lever up until it pops then the assembly can be removed, fitted to door trim and popped back into place. (at least that's what I remember - so can anyone else confirm as I imagine the bits will be expensive if you break them?

Get charging system and battery checked probably by Ford? Local store said battery was flat but sound, Ford said battery needed replacing and would not investigate anything else until that fault was cleared. New battery fitted under protest and has worked fine since. "Useless" battery still working well on 1996 Mondeo diesel. Simple check of charging circuit is a start but "Smart" (sic) charging and all other fancy software tricks leave me cold.

Also, although mentioned before, dry silicone spray between joints on dash and around radio etc really helped to reduce creaking around those parts for me.

With only "old time" diesel experience it sounds like a fuel supply problem/restriction or air leak. What about looking for kinked pipes, air leaks by covering connections with grease, any igns of bubles in the transparent supply pipes, restriction on air inlet into tank (if it's under motorway conditions but not on low mileage runs) Would the diagnostic sytem pick this up? This is the best I can suggest, any other offers?

Sorry to slightly hijack... regarding ETIS, it implies that you have to pay for the info at some stage. What do you get fro free?

I had the same problem of poor strating and flashing lights and they wouldn't touch it until I paid an exorbitant price for a new battery. It has worked fine since but....... The "useless" battery is still working on my 1986 Mondeo TD Estate which is used for very short runs. HMMMMMM. Doug

Job done. Hints I can remember: Ensure handbrake is off by holding down switch whilst turning off ignition. Disconnect battery for certainty, radio and windows (may) need reprogramming. No need to disconnect handbrake cables if careful that hydaulic hose is looked after. 7mm allen key needed to remove guide pins. Calliper then pulls off Had "cube" type wind back tool but not ideal Had to reduce one set of pins to allow it to fit but it's obvious that you need to file down (check your tool is not hardened ( ;-)) I make centres approx 19mm but again, the thread is not tight so as long as you hav

Going to France Tuesday, after all of this chat about rear pads, checked mine- - need to be changed at 19 000 miles. I have all tools and new pads but: I don't want to risk EPB (YUK!) coming on so to be certain, I would like to disconnect battery. Is it only the windows that need to be retrained (down, up, hold 2 seconds for each) Or am I missing something else? I know that you can inhibit the brake from coming on by holding switch down whilst removing key but I don't really want to risk this. Input from anyone who has actually done this job safely would be great (I have been watch

I do, I think get a buzzing from the rear observation mirror which could be the mirror surface vibrating against the rotating plastic housing? Sorry can't be more help but I have rattles enough of my own ;-)

How do you get the mask shape from Ford?

I'm going to investigate the Kwik-Fit pay once (probably more) but then will be replaced for as long as you own the car deal (last car purchased before Max kept for 11 years... so far)

Yes, under warranty, it had to be replaced although I'm sure there will be a home made fix?

Sorry to slightly hi-jack this thread. If fault is still there how do they explain that? IMHO This "battery faulty" business is a disgrace. I also paid for a new one as they wouldn't touch it until this was done.... However the "useless" battery is STILL working (3 months later) in my Mk1 Mondeo TD which is only driven about 5 miles per day most of the time. It went flat in C-Max. Fault has not recurred and Ford did say they would refund if it did but I wonder if they've done something else to up the charge rate? Does anyone have any justification why any of this this should happe