RenesisZero

Nice, look forward to seeing pictures 8)

Even with a 2.0TDCi, IMO you shouldn't get through tyres that quickly. I'd expect that sort of tyre lifespan from something like a Renaultsport Clio with 200 bhp, driven very hard on soft, grippy rubber. Having not actually seen nor experienced the OP's driving style, I can only guess as to what the issue might be. Maybe the tracking is a little out? There are several possibilities. EDIT: Whilst I don't have a 2.0TDCi, my other half does, and I've not seen high tyre wear on it, despite her dad's best efforts when he borrows the car.

Perhaps a more measured approach to depressing your right foot? Given an inappropriate driving style, you could easily wear out tyres that quickly on even the most under-powered of cars.

A 1.6 petrol is going to be much, much slower than your 2.0 diesel for a start, although I don't know if economy or insurance comes into your preference for a small petrol engine. IMO it's not got enough grunt to happily pull the weight of the Focus.

Yes indeed it does, but it doesn't have a flip key (and if I stab myself again whilst sitting down I may be able to get the flip key paid for by the NHS. I may be joking...) Btw the car is a 1.6TDCi Style, built at Valencia Oct '07, first reg Dec '07.

Would love to do this conversion but not likely anytime soon, probably not going to see much benefit anyway, especially with all the weight at the front. I recall with amusement a university lecturer describing drum brakes as 'a thermal disaster' :lol: but for your average road car there's nothing to worry about.

sorry for off-topic, but what's a Mk2.1? Does this perhaps explain why my 57-plate Mk2 has white and red lighting for the dials, when the courtesy car I had (06 plate) was green (and frankly, not nearly as nice 8) )?

You have PM (sorry will89)! It is most refreshing to encounter such generosity :D I will definitely return the favour should I ever be in a position to.

Ahah that's what I've been looking for lol... I did try ebay honest! While I'm here, purely out of curiosity, has anyone managed to go from the 3-button mk1/1.5 style key to a flip key? My gf's focus has a flip key and it's much nicer 8) but not interested if it's hassle.

Something that's been irritating me since I got my car - the Ford logo in the key is missing, and makes the whole key look decidedly second-hand. It's a Mk2, has the 3-button key also found on Mk1/1.5. I asked my local dealership about it, and they said it would be £90 because I'd have to have a new key :shock: Would I be wrong in thinking that I should be able to take a blank key or key casing (if I can get them from somewhere, FINIS anyone? I checked in the Ask Tezza section, FINIS for blade, or whole key at £96) and simply swap the casing over, keeping the same blade/transponder unit?

Interesting ideas, thanks for the replies. I'll keep an eye on the temperature next time I'm out.

My car beeped several times at me last night on the way back home, and I cannot work out why. Similar to the beep you get when you turn the ignition on. A single beep, with at least a minute between each one. No warning messages or lights, except the frost indicator was lit up orange as it was 4deg C. It seemed each time I accelerated from a bend or roundabout (opening throttle fully in a progressive and smooth manner) in 3rd, or 4th, or even 5th, it beeped at me. Is it simply trying to chastise my driving (which I would like to consider as perfectly legal, more than appropriate for the con

1539801 - O/S moulding (Right) - £9.42 1539802 - N/S moulding (Left) - £9.42

There is a fix for the water - two plastic rails fitted to either side of the tailgate glass, which stop the water that has collected at the base of the glass running along the channel and into the boot when you lift it. Tezza is currently sorting out a set for me (cheers!), there is a thread about it on here but currently can't find it.

http://www.ffoc.co.uk/modules.php?name= ... c&t=225523

Could post in the 'Ask Tezza' section, he should be able to find out. Wouldn't mind getting one myself, as you say would turn it into a useful space.

Avoid that website like the plague - it will always return seriously low estimates, because they prey on people's laziness and ignorance in researching the true value of their car, and attempt to offer them buttons for their motor so they can sell it for a large profit. Glasses guide is more accurate, but bear in mind any dealership will aim much lower so they can sell your car (at around the value in Glasses guide) and make money on it. With regards to the car, 32k miles/yr is fairly high, but bear in mind you are going to take a big hit on depreciation, and if you swap every 6 months you

Very nice, good colour :D I'm sure you'll enjoy it for a long time to come.

Obviously I wasn't holding the button long enough - thanks for that. Quite a long list to scroll through, is there a guide/description anywhere for some of the less-obvious stuff shown?

In the Mk1/1.5 Focus there was this very useful diagnostic/self-test mode on the dash: http://www.ffoc.co.uk/modules.php?name= ... ic&t=81565 Simple question: can the same be done on the Mk2, and if so, how? I've tried holding in the set/reset button when turning the ignition on, but nothing happened. After much playing about all I found was the settings for the steering (now firmly set to 'sport'). Any help much appreciated :D

Ah. That'd be the lack of torque/power of the 1.6 requiring a shorter top gear. Sadly there's nothing much you can do (well, you could do 65, or 60, but then you wouldn't be making progress). I guess the 1.6 is more for urbanites and people looking for cheaper insurance. I've got a diesel 1.6 and its a whole different story (around 2.2k rpm for those speeds)

Forcing a 1.6 to match a 2.0 on pace is obviously going to be detrimental to economy. Have you checked your tyre pressures? Also, remove any unnecessary junk from the interior and boot. As it's colder, you may be using the air con more to demist, that along with having the lights and heaters on will place a greater load on the engine, so your economy will naturally suffer a little in winter anyway.

Chances are it's at the crank with little/no load on the alternator. Plus manufacturers can 'massage' figures so don't take what they state as read. You also have to bear in mind manufacturing tolerances, minute changes in spec. etc since the dyno run, on top of all those other variables mentioned above.