CFC

Andy, Yes I saw this, was this not tried before and because there were so few post it reverted to free again? I recall that several posters said that in the main, they posted on this forum to help others, and did not fancy paying for the privilege. I believe there were some unpleasant posts from other members of this site. In effect saying pay up or push off! Stand by for flack! Colin

I would expect them to be the same. The cost of tool + pads will be much cheaper than a garage will charge you. I have done mine with no problem.

I drive many front wheel drive diesel vehicles in the course of my work and they will all spin and or "tramp" until you get used to them. Modern diesel engines have bags of low down torque which is why it happens if you have a heavy foot (or feet). Not so much of a problem with rear wheel drive because the weight transfers to the rear of the car when accelerating.

I have changed all the filters on my 2.0 Tdi no problem for anyone who is used to doing their own maintenance on diesel engines. As Bob has said there may be a problem if more work was done on the fuel system, but not just a filter change. Diesel fuel and used oil is nasty stuff, take care!

Try Andy's suggestion, I have done this twice when the light came on for no apparent reason. You will need to know the radio code first!

It has been many years since I have needed a clutch replaced, can £750 be about the normal cost!!?

I agree, put some more diesel in as soon as there is room. It is the high pressure pump that would be the part that can suffer due to lack of lubrication. This may not show up for a very long time, or not at all. I think you will be o.k.

I seem to recall that a long time ago there was a problem with water getting in through the aerial mounting, due to the said nut being loose. This could also cause corrosion and give bad reception.

Interesting to see the outcome of these investigations. When I first had my car the engine management light came on just before it was due a service, but the car ran normally. Garage said it may be caused by the valve, and did the software fix that Bob mentions. When switching off I can clearly hear the valve clicking about three times and would say that this is louder since the "fix". Having said that, on a couple of occasions the light has again come on for no apparent reason. I disconnected the battery to re-set the electronics and all was well for some months. I use Esso because it is nea

Hi Bob, Try this link and work through it. The ones you have will still fit as they seem to be the same as original. I hope that the later type may help with the wear problem, but it may be just a cost cutting thing. http://www.mintex.com/index.php?option= ... &Itemid=46

I guess at least a ton!

Sorry, that link won't work! Look for MDB 2686 on Mintex site, it supersedes MDB 2281 which has the wire bits on the back. All other sites that I have tried still show the ones that you describe. It will be interesting to see if mine wear as fast as the previous ones.

Bob, the ones you mention are now superseded. Have a look here. http://webshop.tecdoc.net/ows6/en/ECE0F ... ramesetJsp I also found a page on Mintex site that showed the original! Colin

Hi Bob, Yes from memory, I think there was some drag but only slight when jacked up. Interested in what you have found out and agree with what you say. Other makes have EPB's and I wonder how they are with regard to wear. I fitted Mintex and they were not the same as original, have a look on their site. They seem o.k. though. Colin

Can't agree with this, I have the Ghia with the EPB and do not find it a problem in any way. I would prefer a "normal" handbrake but this is how it came and I use it in a similar way to a hand operated brake. I have recently changed the pads with no problem, but I do not see any reason why they wear more. The car is easily pushed with the EPB released so there does not seem to be any drag.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sometimes the problem can be when the pollen filter is changed it can leak when it rains or you wash it, or if the seal I think we have been here before,but the filter on the 2.0 diesel is not behind the glove box and not anything to do with the wiper trim on the passenger side. It may not be the same on all versions of c-max but I would be surprised if this was the case!

Oops!! Sorry about that, I should have read you post correctly.

I still have the original valve,but there was a software update that was supposed to fix the problem. As you say, this may be tempting fate.

Black "can" at front of engine with large Hex on top. It just unscrews and the element is inside. If yours has the engine cover you will need to remove that for access.

I do have the EPB. I switched off with EPB not engaged and then disconnected the battery to ensure that it could not activate. You still require the wind back tool with EPB. As as been posted before on this site, the tool which I bought from Halfords did not quite fit the holes in the piston. A bit of work with a file on the tool soon fixed this. The "Assistants" at Halfords were worthless when I questioned them about this tool!

You beat me to it with regard to the damp in the car, this can be the cause of heavy misting. Agree with you about air con, I have it on most of the time.

I fitted these myself, bit daunting when the new ones are not quite the same as existing ones! However, they are in place and seem o.k. I did not have the problem when reversing, hope I don't with these!

Do you wait for that couple of seconds for the heater plug light to go out before starting? I have no smoke but do have a slight smell, this would be normal with a cold engine.

I thought it was 1.6mm. Not wishing to be picky. Yes 2.0 should be the limit if you want to stop in the wet!

Went to buy some rear pads, Mintex on line show two sorts, the latest supersedes the former. Anyone know if the latest ones will fit a 2004 2.0 Tdci Giha. Mintex dealer only shows the latest pads in his book.