NickWells

ROTFLMAO Not so disconnected, i can no longer edit the sticky! This is school playground stuff! :roll: I wouldn't remove the list as that's not the point, i just won't be updating it here anymore. Try the C-Max section on www.focusowners.com (incidentaly i'm a paid member there as they didn't force the issue!)

What about editing existing posts? Like the sticky.

Maxipad, You can do either filename display or MP3 tag display by pressing the button by the CD slot. Your albums will be sorted by folder so pressing up & down buttons moves through the folders, left and right skips through tracks. I can't remeber the text formatting i'll edit this post when i go out next. The text does scroll once if the name is longer than the display can show. The sound quality from this head unit (and the upgraded speakers included) is amazing. There is plenty of low end and the overall balance of sound is very good. You won't be dissapointed! Nick

So the standby drain of 200mA would flatten the average 45Ah car battery in around 19 days if the car isn't used. Which seems to be the case here. I'll put the fusebox layout up somwhere & add it to the sticky. (thanks Andy got your mail)

Andy, if you send it me i'll put it in the sticky. Nick

In a nutshell the window fitters have probably cut through the cables to the reciever. It's located in the headlining in front of the courstey light module. Muppets! All too common.

Once it has been on for a while the glass will be slightly warm to the touch. If you take a mug of hot water into the car the glass will fog at the edges where there are no wires, but the rest should remain clear. If it doesn't seem to work, check the 2 fuses in the fusebox under the bonnet, one for passenger side and one for drivers side. If all that seems ok you need to check the supply wires to the screen. You will need to remove the wiper arms and the bulkhead cover (it just unclips) You will then see the 2 feed wires to the bottom of the screen. One of mine had broken where it wasn'

Get them to check that the power cables to the Quickclear heater are correctly secured, otherwise they can foul on the wiper arm mechanism and eventually break. (drivers side mainly). I was able to repair mine with careful use of a scalpel & a quick dab of a soldering iron. Saved me a new windscreen! Tw@ts should have fitted it properly in the first place!

Windows Media Player does a grand job and as rob says it's free.

I'm sure you could find a good home for the egr valve too! Put a blanking plate over the hole they wont miss it! :D

You will need a security torx set to remove it (the torx keys with the hole in the middle) The player should unbolt and unplug. It will leave a gaping hole in the roof lining though. The dvd player may be vehicle aware (see if there are more than just power cables). If it is then it wont work in another car without being reprogrammed by a Ford dealer. If you do take it, don't forget the code & the headphones! Nick

Nice one! I've got the factory fitted one and it keeps the kids quiet for hours!

If it's only one window i would suspect the fault lies in the door somewhere, or maybe the cables to the door. The one touch works by monitoring the current drawn by the motor as the window closes. When you calibrate this the system monitors the current as you close the window normally. This value is then recorded. If the motor current exceeds this value when closing, the system thinks there is something in the way of the glass so it stops. You may have a faulty winding mechanism that is sticking, or maybe the electronics driving/monitoring the motor in the door are at fault. Trouble is

Have you tried recalibrating yourself? Fully open the window, pull the button up to close the window and hold it till the window is closed. Then release the button and pull it up again holding for a few seconds. Now try the one touch. Nick

They will recommend it but it is optional. Nick

had the same thing on my 53 2.0 TDCI. Cause was a Flat battery. The battery may have enough to power the radio, but cranking a diesel engine needs a lot more. When you turn the key to crank, the starter moter loads up the battery making the voltage drop too low which resets the computer. When the computer resets it turns off the starter motor & the voltage comes back up again. It then tries to turn the starter motor on because you are still holding the key. Battery voltage drops again.... So you end up with an all lights flashing relay clicking situation as the car switches between

Bump Found a new fix for battery discharging Nick

AFAIK it can only be done by a dealer using the WDS. The green light is very very dim to be unobtrusive at night. you can only just make it out when its dark. your's may be working anyway. At night if someone comes up behind you with bright lights, the mirror darkens giving the image a slight green tint to it. You'll notice the difference by comparing the view to that in the side mirrors. Nick

It lets you know that auto dipping of the mirror is switched on.

Unless the voltage buffer module is faulty too and has affected the power supply to the instrument cluster. This in turn could be trying to get power elsewhere. Computers behave completely unpredictably under 'brown out'. It is odd that he result of this is to disable features. Check the obvious then get it back to the dealer.

Global close wont work if the One touch close is disabled. If the battery has been disconnected you will need to recalibrate each of your windows. To Do this: Open the window fully Close the window fully (holding the button up until the window stops) Once the window has closed release the button then pull it up again for a second and release it. Do this for each window. The one touch close & global close should now work. Why do this? The window has a safety feature that will stop the window if something gets trapped in it (childs hands etc...). To do this it monitors how hard the m

I think it's for people with fuel cards who need to quote mileage when they fill up. Instead of putting the key in to wake up the dash, the light stays on for a while so you can just look in the window...

The audio output from the DVD player is fine but you will pickup lots of alternator noise as niether the aux in input or the headphone output have any form of isolation from the power supply in the car. In an ideal world everything in the car would be referenced to the ground but with the mass of cabling the doesn't happen. The slight DC shift in the output signal from the DVD player upsets the Aux input on the radio. To cure this you need to fit a ground loop isolator between the Roof DVD player and the glovebox aux socket. Maplin Electronics sell them. It's basically a pair of audio tran

If you have a young family, the extra bits in the Ghia are worthwhile, observation mirror, integral rear sunblinds. Generally the Ghia is quieter inside than the LX as it has more soundproofing. Either way it's a very good family car. The main bugbear seems to be dealer attitude, so find a good one.

DJD, Have you had any test drives yet? What is your car history, would this be your first diesel? If so, definately try both of them before you buy. The 2 litre will bring a smile to your face it's a belter! but as Rob says, if you're not doing the mileage the 1.6 makes more sense economically. Nick