bryant_andy

Damp cloth. Just wipe down the whole area and stain goes. Twice a year I use our vax and give the whole inside a good wet vac. Looks like new afterwards.

On old cars with no fuel filters, but modern cars have decent fuel filters fitted so as to stop the injectors getting blocked.

What tyres do you have? Our 1.6TDCI was hopless on the Continentals but was fine on Marshalls and now with the new Kumhos it is still very good.

They use a universal U clamp kit that comes with the box. Fits fine, but the aero kits are easier/quicker to fit & remove & look better :D

Just about all Roof Boxes will fit the C-Max. The main thing to consider is what ones will suit your needs! We had a big square(ish) one, but found it was hopless as unless you had steps at either end of journey it was hard to load. So we eBayed that one and bought a longer thinner one from Halfords. It has about the same amount of space, but is easier to load/unload with out steps. And easier to store. We bought this one Halfords 360L Silver Roof Box http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryrn_33979 I also bought an optional kit that allows it to fit on the aero bars in a nea

Andy Which ones did you get, need 4 new ones again and def not getting conti's again. Cheers Charlie These ones KU31 94 V size - 205/55 16 Very pleased with grip, noise etc. Can not comment on wear rate yet as they have only been on car for 1 month.

It is a tweeter.

Oh yes indeed. Very slippery stuff diesel.

We have this happen to pur C-Max sometimes. We do not worry about it as opening and closing a door cures it! Seems to only occur when car has been started with doors open. As for the clock losing time. Again, ours does this. But it does only needs to have clock reset every couple of months so again, we live with it. You may ask why do we not worry about these things :!: Simple answer is that rest of car makes up for these small issues. OK, so the C-Max is not perfect. But as a car for a family of 4 it it blooming good :lol: It handles great, good MPG and is very practical. Andy

I would also suggest disconnecting the battery for a bit, say 10 mins. Then retry. Andy

Suppose seeing the milage for a few mins after turning of ignition could be usefull for company car drivers who need to give mileage when filling up. As for clock, well I suppose it could be handy if on exiting the car you want to know the time! Andy

Bit about thieves is a joke (we do like a laugh here) As for lights staying on, they do this, and it is normal. As to why? Don't know :? Andy

I use a windscreen sealer. My local Windscreen place called it Gum Gum. It is black and does not dry so remains flexible. They used to use it to seal windscreens on old cars. Ask at your local Windscreen place to see if they have some. Andy

12 months or 12,000 miles, what ever happens first.

Boot very easy to fix. 15 mins I should think and the cost of the switch. Was the last service carried out by Ford? If so it may have had the software updated then. Andy

There was an ECY update that included a voltage reset that meant that the battery was given a higher charge. If yours has not had this it could be the cause of your problems. Andy

If you PM me with an e-mail address I will send you a list of the fuses. Andy

There is problem with water ingress killing these switches, so it would be a safe bet to say that is the problem. Andy

On our 54 reg C-Max there is an accessory feed at the radio, but I do not know about the later cars. But it would not suprise me if this is can bus controlled. Audi have been doing this for ages. I would check for one using the M/Meter. If there is not one you can get an ignition at the headlamp switch. I used this feed for my front parking eyes. Not sure of wire colour as I did this over 2 years ago. Andy

I notice that you have not been a member long. If you had you would know that we try to help each other out here. Andy

I have sent you a PM to see if a non paid up member (me) can send PM's or not. Andy

I have sent the fuse board listing. Ours does settle down to 0.2amp after 20 mins (ish) And although this is to high it does not cause a problem. I would charge your battery fully and then get it checked. After we had flat battery I would give battery a full charge at the weekend during cold weather. Andy

The 0.37 is 0.37amps so about a 3rd of an amp. If you lock the car up and wait 20 mins or so and the radio & odemeter lights go out I think you will find this drops to 0.2amp. I know ours does. Although this used to be considered high, most people I speak to say that modern cars do drain more. When your car goes flat, is it so flat that the ignition lights hardly light? If so, you may be having the problem that we had earlier this year. ECU monitors the battery and if the ECU thinks the battery is going flat it turns on the headlamps to protect the ECU when you jump start it :roll

The boot popping open problem will be a faulty switch. Not expensive and easy to change. As for the flat battery problem. You will need to get the battery fully charged and then checked with a battery checker. Local battery specialist will have one and they normaly test for free. If battery is OK then it would look like you have a charging problem. There have reports of alternators going wrong and causing this problem. But it could be the battery. Hope this makes sense Andy

I have scanned these in to my PC now so can mail them to who ever requires them. Just PM me with an e-mail address. Zac, I have mailed them to you.